Comedogenic oils: how to spot them?

Comedogenic oils: how to spot them?

17/05/2021


Does the appearance of small pimples after the application of a new face cream or vegetable oil mean anything to you? Obviously, the skin reacts and we must find the culprit or culprits... What if it's from an oil called "comedogenic"?

COMEDOGENIC OIL: WHAT DOES IT MEAN? 

In cosmetics, some ingredients can be comedogenic to our skin. The "comedogenic" aspect of an ingredient is defined by its propensity to promote the appearance of blackheads and blackheads. The pores of the face are blocked by the substance that covers them and the skin can no longer breathe. Among these ingredients, mineral oils, and even vegetable oils, can in particular trigger these skin reactions.

Mineral oils are very popular in the cosmetics industry: stainless, odourless, inexpensive... They have everything to seduce, at least in appearance. Despite a name that might lead one to think that these oils are natural, they are ultimately derived from petrochemicals and are obtained by the distillation of petroleum. They are purely synthetic. Their role is to soften the skin and fight against dehydration. However, these oils do not have any real active ingredients and do not act in depth, unlike vegetable oils. The appearance of the skin may appear to be improved, but this synthetic ingredient simply forms a protective film on the surface of the skin, without providing any real benefits. These oils are precisely occlusive and are therefore considered comedogenic. In addition to being bad for your skin, they are even worse for nature. Their production is very polluting and non-biodegradable.

In the composition of cosmetics, here is the list of mineral oils: Paraffinum Liquidum, Paraffin, Petrolatum, Petrolatum jelly, Cera Microcrystallina, Mineral Oil, Ceresin, Ozokerite, Polyisobutylene, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene.

Natural, rich in antioxidants, vitamins A, B, C, D.... Vegetable oils are even more attractive than mineral oils to take care of your skin! True to the name they bear this time, they are derived from a plant, more particularly an oleaginous plant. It is from the seeds or the fruit that the oil is extracted. This process is not polluting, the oils obtained are biodegradable, respect your skin and will bring multiple benefits in depth. In the formulation of organic cosmetics, these oils are widely used. However, even if a vegetable oil is full of virtues for the skin, it can have comedogenic effects due to its oxidation. Oxidation is influenced by the fatty acid structure, the richness in vitamins or antioxidants. The cutaneous reaction, due to the application of a vegetable oil, also depends on the type of skin. An oil can be comedogenic for oily skin, while it is perfectly suitable for dry skin. It is therefore important to know your skin type to determine which oil is right for you. To do so, help yourself with our skin diagnosis!

WHAT ARE COMEDOGENIC VEGETABLE OILS?

comedogenic oil

In order to identify comedogenic vegetable oils, there is a comedogenicity index ranging from 0 (for non-comedogenic oils) to 5 (for very comedogenic oils). However, this index is based only on a probability scale. An oil with an index of 5 is not to be avoided, because it can still provide good elements to the skin. The quantity used and the frequency of application will also play a role. This index is based on several criteria: the oil's sensitivity to oxidation, its freshness, the quality of the oil, and penetration into the skin.

  • Oils with a 0 index are not comedogenic.
  • Oils with an index between 1 and 2 are not very comedogenic.
  • Oils with an index of 3 and 4 are comedogenic.
  • Oils with an index of 5 are very comedogenic.

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Vegetable oils index of 0 :

- Argan oil

- Avocado oil

- Babassu oil

- Baobab oil

- Camelina oil

- Camelina oil

- Hemp oil

- Prickly pear oil

- Jojoba oil

- Hazelnut oil

- Rice bran oil

- Sunflower oil

- Shea butter

- Aloe Vera Gel

Vegetable oils index 1 : 

- Calendula oil

- Carrot oil

- Safflower oil

- Rosehip oil

- Pomegranate oil

- Sacha Inchi Oil

- Neem oil

- Black cumin oil

- Grape seed oil 

- Strawberry seed oil

- Raspberry seed oil

- Castor oil 

- Sesame oil 

- Beeswax

Vegetable oils index 2 : 

- Apricot oil

- Sweet almond oil

- Sea buckthorn oil

- Borage oil

- Calophyll oil

- Macadamia oil

- Moringua Oil

- Walnut oil

- Olive oil

- Evening primrose oil

- Soya oil

Vegetable oils index 3 : 

- Cottonseed oil

- Rose hip oil

- Cocoa butter

Vegetable oils index of 4 :

- Coconut oil

- Linseed oil

- Peach kernel oil

Vegetable oils index of 5 :

- Wheat germ oil 

WHAT VEGETABLE OILS FOR MY SKIN TYPE? 

vegetable oil for the face

The comedogenicity index is a good way to help you choose the right vegetable oil for your skin type, especially if you choose to use it frequently and in its pure form.

In general, oils with an index between 0 and 2 are preferred for oily skin with acneic tendencies. This type of skin is, in fact, more sensitive to the comedogenic aspect of an oil, because the epidermis is more prone to imperfections. However, an oil with a slightly higher index can be applied occasionally and with just a little bit of material. For example, coconut oil has an index of 4, but it has antifungal and antibacterial virtues that can be interesting for acne-prone skin.

Normal to combination skin tolerates oils with an index of up to 3: argan oil for its nourishing and protective properties, sweet almond oil to bring suppleness to the skin, rose hip oil for its firming and regenerating aspect, the choice is yours!

For dry skin, it is possible to use all vegetable oils, regardless of the index. However, this type of skin will prefer an oil that is a little richer and more nourishing. We can go from avocado oil (index 0), known for its nourishing virtues, to wheat germ oil (index 5) which helps fight against chapping, strengthens the skin's hydrolipidic film and regenerates cells.

Within cosmetic formulations, the comedogenicity index needs to be qualified. If you have oily skin and your daily skin care product containsrosehip oil, there's no point in throwing it away! In cosmetic care, everything depends on the proportion of oil incorporated in the care and the active ingredients in the formulation. Cosmetic laboratories carefully study these different mixtures and know in what proportion the oil must be dosed, to be adapted to the skin. For example, in our oleoactive Akane, we use rose hip oil, known for its wonders on the skin. The quantity of oil present in our oleoactive, makes it perfectly adapted to all skin types, even if its comedogenicity index is 3.

Moreover, let's not forget that each skin is different and reacts in its own way.

Application advice for a pure vegetable oil

For the application of a vegetable oil, no need to brush your face, just a few drops are enough, 3-6 maximum! Warm the material between your hands and apply it by gently touching the skin. At the end of the application, place all of your hands against your face. The warmth of your palms will help your skin absorb the oil.

If the oily appearance bothers you, you can mix a little aloe vera gelwith your oil. Otherwise, you can sprayrose water on your face before applying it. Moistening your face will reduce the oily effect and will also help the material to penetrate better!

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